Bonairean Bliss

Mary Moss
Oct 10, 2023
7 min read

Updated: May 4, 2024

Bon Nochi, or Good Evening, from Bonaire–

It’s quite toasty here in Bonaire as September and October are the hottest months of the year and we’re told the wind dies in October. I’m sure hoping that is false as the breeze sure does help. Fortunately, we spend a lot of time in water so we will survive.

Speaking of water, we continue to be awestruck by the beauty under the sea. It truly is a whole new world underwater. We’ve seen some awesome things since my last writing with both David on some ‘fun’ dives and me while snorkeling. Recent highlights include a spotted eagle ray, southern stingray, green sea turtles, moray eels, midnight parrotfish, octopus, etc. My snorkel buddy, Marjory & I, treated ourselves to a guided snorkel tour of 3 sites on Klein Bonaire. It was amazing!! The guides sure have a wonderful office! If we weren't snorkeling, the crew of the Woodwind were providing us with snacks and drinks. They also served a lovely post snorkel lunch which was delicious. I look forward to snorkeling with them again soon. Please enjoy the many pictures of the many underwater marvels. NOTE: If a picture looks super good, super close and awesome, it was likely taken by the photographer (go-bonaire.com) on the boat who would freedive down to capture some amazing shots.

With regard to beautiful sea turtle activity, I was able to witness a baby turtle emerge from its shell and crawl into the ocean (short video clip below). It was amazing! I am so grateful I was able to witness this magical event. Once again I must mention that it is very difficult for a baby turtle to go from the shell, out of the nest and into the sea. It’s a journey that takes a fair amount of time, effort, instinct and MUCH luck.

I’m still enjoying every minute volunteering with @bonaireturtles. I continue to join beach patrols on Klein Bonaire, when possible, and have even been assigned a beach on the mainland to patrol on my own once a week. This involves walking from one end of a beach to the other looking for signs of turtle activity. On my first day, I saw two large tracks into and out of the water and what I thought might have been a nest but it turns out they were just 2 crawls (where a turtle comes out of the sea looking for her preferred spot to lay her eggs). I’m told this was likely from a green sea turtle they have been tracking. Sounds like she found her spot a couple miles away a few days later. My legs (and hip flexors) are getting a workout walking on the slippery coral stones and volcanic rock. We, humans, are the biggest threat to turtles…and many other living creatures. Please be mindful of and try to reduce your plastic consumption. Also, littering is just so uncool. Wherever you are, find a bin, take it with you…just don’t litter. I’m confident we can and should do better as a whole! Rant over….for now. ;)

The other night we experienced our first tropical “wind reversal”. It was something! It has been cloudy off and on all day with a few clouds raining here and there. After an impressive lightning show shortly after the sunset, Mother Nature decided to let the wind and rain take center stage. All of a sudden the wind picked up significantly. Such that we were grabbing items off the balcony and battening down the hatches. The water must have had 3-4 foot swells and was slamming into the sea wall. We had stuff blowing all over. A roll of paper towels was blown off the counter and made it across the kitchen and dining area. Our cherished fan was even knocked over!! It’s ok…it’s still working. Doors banged shut and the shutters were on a continuous banging loop until we could get them locked. It was the best breeze I’d felt in a while. Sadly a little palm tree out front was topped by the wind. We’re told it was a 'small' wind reversal but we sure found it to be quite attention getting!

I’ve also been fortunate to spend some time with Jessica, an artist from MoltenWolf Glass. Molten Wolf Glass specializes in fabulous fused glass art. Jessica has allowed me to ‘shadow’ her. She is very knowledgeable and patient when working with me and I’m learning a great deal from her. I just learned you can buy mini kilns that can be used in a microwave. I may have finally found a good use for the girls extra microwaves from college! Jessica even let me try my hand at creating a couple pieces which was awesome. I’m excited to see how they turn out after being fired in the kiln. With fused glass art you have to be patient while waiting to see the final product…that’s the difficult part for me. :)

We were also lucky to enjoy the last Taste of Bonaire for the season. Many food, craft and art vendors set up in the park and along the main beachfront street with their many items. The food selection was awesome…and delicious. The live music was also fabulous. We totally enjoyed the friendly and fun vibe during this event (though we called it a night earlier than most).

We can also tell the island is taking advantage of the ‘slow’ season to get ready for the ‘busy’ tourist season. We are now seeing lots of sand ships coming and going from port. One ship has a big scooper diggy thing (David said the official name is a track hoe) on tracks suspended over the sand filled cargo hold. It scoops and loads the sand into semi trailer sized trucks which then delivers the sand to various resorts and beaches across the island.

I also took the opportunity to visit the Terramar Museum on Bonaire. Terramar is dedicated to displaying and promoting the history and archeology of Bonaire as well as providing education and preserving the cultural heritage of Bonaire. I found this to be a lovely and informative museum. Trigger Warning: Sadly, Bonaire, like many other places, has an unfortunate history with cruel and inhumane treatment of indigenous people and human slavery. Below are items from an informative timeline display at the museum.

In 1501, native Bonaireans were captured and sold into slavery.
In the 1520’s, Bonaire was settled by the Spanish and Rincon was founded.
In 1636, Bonaire was settled by the Dutch.
In 1780 the Great Hurricane wreaked havoc throughout the Caribbean. An estimated 22,000 people lost their lives in this storm.
In 1789, A former slave by the name of Olaudah Equiano published an autobiography which became an important work in the British debate over the abolition of slavery.
In 1838, the first Indian indentured laborers were shipped to the Caribbean.
In 1840, the aloe vera plant was introduced on Bonaire (some slaves worked on aloe vera plantations).
In 1838 & 1848, the British and French colonies were the first to abolish slavery.
In 1850, stone slave huts were built near Bonaire's salt pans.
- The slaves lived in Rincon but were forced to work at the salt pans…a a distance that required a 7 hour walk.
- The slave huts were built so slaves could remain close to the salt pans.
- The slave huts were small, yet 6-7 people and their meager belongings were expected to fit in the huts that you couldn't even stand inside.
- A quote from a former slave: “Every Saturday on our day off we have to walk northward, from the salt pans in the south to Rincon where we receive our weekly rations. We don’t get much - only six jars of maize, some beef, coffee and run. Our families are living in Rincon, and luckily they grow additional food to supplement our meager rations. I don’t get to spend much time with my wife and children because on Sundays we have to start work again after a long walk back to the salt pans”.
Slaves on Bonaire also worked as servants and maids, carpenters, masons, coopers, lumberjacks and blacksmiths. Some slaves had more unconventional jobs. For example, when the island’s surgeon passed away in 1816, his slave took over the business. Slaves were also involved in law enforcement; in the 1840’s, the entire Bonairean police force consisted of 5 slaves!
In 1863, slavery was abolished in the Dutch colonies.
In 2010, The Netherlands Antilles was dismantled and Bonaire became a special municipality of the Netherlands.

A number of the slave huts are preserved on the island. Markers and information share this sad part of Bonairean history rather than eliminate or hide these artifacts and dark past.

There are caves on the island that are believed to be a place of origin for the first peoples that lived here. The paintings or cave writings are preserved and can be seen by the public. Having seen them several times, it’s quite special.

In closing, I’ll share that I gave myself a personal challenge since my last post. I committed to and completed a swim from the mainland to Klein Bonaire…along with 450+ others. It was the 21st annual swim to Klein and is a fundraiser for the Jong Bonaire youth center and afterschool program. There was a competitive heat and a fun swim. I opted for the fun swim. An intense and surprising current interfered with the ‘fun’ part for me a little. There was a bit of time where I was a little concerned but desperately did not want to let the current get the best of me or quit and call a boat. Quite surprisingly, I made it in 21 minutes. I have no doubts the above thoughts helped me stay the course.

My parents used to talk about this event from their time on the island. I’d imagine my dad is looking down and shaking his head wondering why I’d join such a mass of people. My mom…she doesn’t yet know I did this and I’m sure I’m going to get a scolding for doing so once she finds out. ;)

This & That

David recently crossed the 3 digit threshold with regard to his total dive count. He said one of his colleagues told him that when you hit 100 dives, you have to do that dive nekkid! Fortunately, our life experience (code for age) tells us that this is trickery, hazing etc. and David did NOT dive sans clothing. ;)
The female stoplight parrotfish can change to the male gender if she senses a need based on low numbers of males in the area. Nature is so interesting.
We’ve seen lots of blue tangs (like Dory in the Finding Nemo/Finding Dory movies). We’re told that the color on the tang fades as they age.
The beach where I am doing the beach keeping patrol is across from the airport. Lights from the airport can confuse the baby turtles and make them crawl to the street or airport parking lot rather than the ocean. As the nest matures, cages are set up to prevent the babies from crawling the wrong direction. People volunteer to ‘Beach Keep’ numerous beaches on Bonaire to assist the Bonaire Sea Turtle Conservation group in their efforts to help the sea turtles. :)

With continued gratitude. :)