Adventures with Ash in Colombia--May 2023

Graffiti, Flora, & Comuna 13–Medellin Colombia

After we said goodbye to our friends and travel buddies of the past 2 plus weeks, we traveled to Medellin to spend 12 days with Ashley exploring some sights in Colombia. We had an awesome 2 bedroom apartment in a great area in Envigado (essentially a suburb of Medellin). We had a lovely balcony that overlooked the pedestrian area among the restaurants and shops below. While we might have slowed down a little from our fast paced Galapagos adventures, we still had a lot to pack in while in Colombia.

After getting settled, grabbing some groceries and starting some laundry (so nice to use an actual washing machine rather than doing sink laundry), we walked around the area. I continue to be amazed at how lush and green Medellin is. Being the City of Eternal Spring, it makes sense but seeing the flowers and plants so much larger than we see back home was something. The plants and flowers are everywhere and people take so much pride in them. The little gardens outside the homes/apartments are so well maintained. Plants and flowers are also in the street medians, it’s so beautiful.

We were able to visit one of my favorite places in Medellin; Comuna 13. This is a neighborhood in the hills of Medellin that is rich with history…and resilience. For years, Comuna 13 was known as the most dangerous area in Medellin (yikes). From the mid 1980’s, there was much poverty, violence and trafficking at the hands of illegal armies, cartels and the like. The area was geographically located in a way that allowed for an efficient trafficking of drugs, weapons and money, etc. We’re told illegal groups controlled the area and there was much violence and daily murders. There were numerous attempts by the government to remedy the situation to no avail and great loss of life. In 2002, the Orion Operation began and lasted for several days involving atrocious fighting between the military and cartels/illegal armies. There were over 2,000 displaced individuals. There was still unrest and paramilitary control for some time. In the mid 2000’s, the government invested money in the Comuna 13 area including a cable car line and in 2011 outdoor escalators were installed to help people more easily climb to the top of the area. As someone who has ascended the top of Comuna 13 a couple times, I can tell you I greatly prefer using the escalators! During this visit we ended up climbing the 350 steps under our own power thanks to a Didi (similar to Uber) driver who dropped us off in the wrong area (ugh).

Comuna 13 tells the area's history with vibrant graffiti as you make your way to the top of the district. The area is beautiful, poignant, vibrant and filled with art, music, dancing, food, artisanal goods and lovely people. The views also defy description and the pictures don’t do them justice. NOTE: PLEASE take time to read more about the history of Comuna 13 and if you are ever in the area, have a guide give you a tour of the area so you can learn more about the area’s history from a local.

Another day, we took a lovely hike up a mountain and then visited an EcoPark (or botanical garden). It was set along a small river and was beautiful. We enjoyed a great lunch and then briefly dozed off in one of the covered shelters. It was a lovely way to spend the day.

Jerico, Colombia

We spent a long weekend in the charming town of Jerico, Colombia. Jerico is located about 1,000 feet higher than Medellin and is part of the Andes mountain range. It was a 3.5 hour bus ride up the mountains to get to this quaint town. My hat’s off to the bus driver who navigated the sharp twists, turns and switch backs with ease. The ride alone was an awesome adventure. Jerico is also known for its colorful homes and buildings. In fact, it’s a town law that every home must be painted with at least 3 different colors! What an awesome law…enjoy the many pics I took of the beautifully colored buildings.

The population of Jerico is approximately 17,000 individuals and the town has 14 Catholic churches. Religion, particularly Catholicism, is a strong part of the area. Another reason religion may be so significant is due to the fact that Laura Montoya, Saint Laura Montoya, was born in Jerico in 1874. She was canonized as a saint in May 2013 by Pope Francis. She is known as the patron saint of those suffering racial discrimination and orphans. She spent much time in the jungles in Colombia and other countries in South America ministering to indigenous people.

Aside from checking out several of the Churches in the area, we spent time in the town square daily. The square was a park-like setting with benches, fountains, much foliage and a great place for people to congregate and talk about their day. There were restaurants and shops…and at least one church around the square. It was a really neat place to hang out…especially on Friday and Saturday nights.

We stayed at a lovely hotel called Hotel Santa Laura that was so quaint and charming. Both our rooms had a lovely view of the mountains. It was so quiet and peaceful at night. The windows were shutters you open and close as you prefer. There was no air conditioner, which initially gave me pause, but the temps were quite comfortable at night. Everywhere you look, you see the beauty of nature.

Coffee Tour

Despite being on holiday, Ashley still had a few classes to teach on-line so David and I went on a coffee tour adventure without her. She arranged the tour for us and walked us to meet our taxi driver. She explained that we don’t know Español so the ride was quiet with David and I quickly exhausting the little Español we know and the same for our driver with his English. We drive about 20-25 minutes outside town and even higher in the mountains to a family owned coffee farm. There we met our guide Juan David who was quite delightful. He was the grandson of the founder and will be studying marketing soon and will work in the family business. How do I know this given our language barrier? Juan David knows more English than we know Spanish. We also, and I’m somewhat ashamed to admit this, used a voice translation app…and so did Juan.

For the tour, Juan had us strap a wicker basket to our waist and gave us a large straw hat to wear. We then began the tour. He spoke of how his grandmother started the farm and how it is very much a family business with his dad working in the laboratory, his grandfather and uncle working in the fields picking the coffee beans and how other family members were also involved. We saw the coffee plant and learned that the coffee bean is actually a fruit. We ate some and it actually tastes fruity! Both David and I planted a coffee bean and saw how the bean is dried, the husk shucked, grinding, etc.

Then came the tasting. Anyone who knows me knows I’m not a fan of coffee…certainly something I did not mention anywhere in Colombia. Juan prepared the French press by letting hot water sit in it and our coffee cups for a bit. He then poured the water back in the pot and then prepared the coffee. He let it steep in the press for 4 minutes (no more) and then poured us each a cup (fortunately the coffee cups were much smaller than we use back home). So, guess what??? I drank a full cup of coffee! I told David that was a true sign of my love for him. He LOVED the coffee and bought 2 bags and some coffee/honey marmalade. Going through customs should be fun!

In all seriousness, the tour was great. We both learned a great deal and have much respect for how difficult it is to grow and cultivate coffee. The farm and views were breathtaking. In chatting with Juan, he shared that he had never left Jerico and didn’t plan to do so. Given the amazing beauty of nature and close ties with family, I can certainly see why.

Horse Ride Though Jerico

Ashley and I also had a lovely 2 hour horse ride one afternoon. It was just the 2 of us and our guide (David was savoring his coffee). The horses were very tame and easy to ride. We took a slow walk through the city as the horses don’t like cars and motorcycles so we had to be careful. Once outside the town, we were treated to more amazing views of the Andes mountains, farms and so much beautiful countryside. At one point we had to stop to just admire the beauty. After this, it was about time to head back. My horse, Rosita, knew her day was about over so she wanted to move a bit faster. I was fine with this but our guide said we had to stay behind him. He reiterated this after Rosita and I had a few moments where we passed him..oops. Spending time riding in nature reminded me how much I enjoy both horses and nature. I may have to look into riding options back home.

Hiking Parque Nubes

One morning we hiked to Parque Cerro Las Nubes, which translates loosely to ‘park in the clouds’. Although we were already at what I thought was the top of a mountain, we hiked even higher. We began walking up ‘100 stairs’ which are 100 cobblestone stairs near that town square that provide a lovely view of the mountain in all directions. It was a steep hike with many switchbacks. Ashley was very patient with the number of times David and I had to take a break (ohh to have the cardio and stamina of youth). The hike was definitely worth it. We were absolutely up in the clouds and it was so amazing! We sat at the top for a bit enjoying the amazing view of Jerico, the trees and clouds. On the way down, we noticed that someone had posted signs of affirmation on some of the trees. We didn’t notice this on the way up so it was a treat to see. Some of the quotes translate as follows:

• Breathe the air of different places (this was my favorite)

• Difficult paths lead to beautiful destinations (this certainly applied to the hike ;))

• Knowledge is power

• + soul - ego

• Let's put a lot of love in life

Grande Cristo & Random Grazing Donkeys

Later we took a taxi to a much smaller and very walkable hill, Morro El Salvador, where a large statue of Christ stands overlooking the town. The panoramic views of Jerico are beautiful. While we were there, we observed 2 donkeys grazing in the grass. They weren't owned by any of the visitors, just 2 random donkeys grazing in front of Big Cristo. Perhaps they too enjoyed the view.

Our time in Jerico was absolutely lovely. This town is definitely a hidden gem. It’s absolutely charming with lovely people, beauty everywhere you look, great food, amazing art and delicious bakeries. I can’t wait to visit again!

Back in Envigado again, we enjoyed time on the balcony in our rental. This time the views were of the City and more mountains. We were across the street from a supermall that was 3 stories and the roof had soccer fields and sand volleyball courts. The malls here were something else. They are very fancy with a mix of high end stores, auto dealerships, spas, and so many awesome restaurants, cafes and bakeries. David and I made a number of trips there while Ashley was working. It was awesome to spend time exploring Colombia with Ashley once again. We had great adventures and shared wonderful times together. I’m a happy and grateful mum. ;)

Final thoughts:

• Brooks shoes rock! I said ‘goodbye’ to mine in Colombia. They had a good run and saw many sights in several countries over the past few years. I have a new pair waiting for me at home.

• Washcloths! We missed washcloths during the first part of the trip and finally bought some in Colombia. The internet indicated that in many countries washcloths are seen as very personal, akin to a toothbrush, where washing and having someone else use is just not done.

• All 6 of us made this trip with just a carry-on and backpack. While it was tight, it was also liberating and enabled us to breeze through airports, taxis and shuttles with ease.

• Sunblock sticks were awesome and provided great sun protection without liquid travel limitations.

• Sun hats, sun shirts and quick dry clothing was a must. I also LOVED my ninja-looking ball cap.

• The gratitude we have for sharing such an amazing adventure with wonderful friends and family is beyond measure. We are so thankful…and lucky.